The manicured rolling hills and passive pace of the Tuscan countryside is a departure from its capital, Florence (see previous blog), and other bustling cities within its boundaries, such as Pisa and Siena (see archives). The landscape encourages romantic idylls to come alive, spoiling you with an old fashioned vibe that meets the beauty of your expectations.
Famed for fine wine and olive oil production, undeniably some of the best in the world, there is so much more that the spotlight glances over. Traditions and culture are at the root of the belief system, particulary when it comes to comestible requisites. And the views…oh the views…all encompassing, spreading for miles on panoramic vistas at every glance and every turn.
Despite this plethora of assets, the locals remain modest and welcoming to this agritourism environment, wanting you to experience every indulgence of their down to earth home. A real culinary and cultural treat, leaving you educated and craving for more!
How we got there:
Our travel time to San Casciano was roughly 30 mins in the car, a mere 7 miles south of Florence. If you are staying in one of the main cities, there is an abundance of tour operators exploringTuscany. Depending on how much ground you want to cover (of the 9,000 sq. miles), will decide your mode of transport. A car proved the best option for us with a tour thrown in.
Where we stayed:
Villa Mangiacane- http://www.mangiacane.com
Tuscany was a ‘splurge location’ on our road trip, so we opted for the lavish Villa Mangiacane ‘dating back to the fifteenth century and was built for the Machiavelli family with whispers that Michelangelo himself participated in the design”. The Prince was penned near the villa and there is a museum exhibiting some works.
The mansion itself was all it promised, long tree lined driveway, beautiful pools to take a dip and gorgeous Italian architecture offering views to Florence from the expansive veranda. However, after receiving our ‘upgrade’, this meant we did not stay in the house itself but rather one of the new cottages- a disappointing alternative. Just make sure to request a villa room if you are booking. This place would be a good Wedding venue but the minority may suffer for the steep price you pay when a group is there.
What we did:
Wine and Oil Tasting- Our training from the Tuscan Wine School (see Florence blog) really kicked in here and gave us a sense of understanding for the Chianti Classico and Sangiovese grape flavours. Without that class it would have been a shame to lack appreciation for some of the textures and finer details.
For those like us, who are complete novices to Chianti Classico “it is only produced int his small wine-region and one of the best-known and appreciated globally.It’s included in the Super-Tuscan wines and has been produced here for over 2000 years, since Etruscan time. Chianti Classico is a DOCG wine and shows unique peculiarities and characteristics. To be named “Classico” is not enough to be produced within the Chianti region. In fact Classico wine has to respect specific rules. Its blend is 80% for Sangiovese, red grape typical of this area, 20% for other grapes that can native grapes such as Canaiolo and Colorino, as well as other international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot” (source: http://www.chianti.com).
Sangiovese is difficult grape to cultivate anywhere else in the world, and often described as “a pain in the ass” by a lot of the locals, and countries like New Zealand have failed its diva demands making it even more special to this region.
-Villa Mangiacane (€28 pp)- “Set amongst 600 acres of flourishing vineyards and olive groves, the private villa now produces wines and olive oil from the estate’s 6,000 olive trees”. We got a tour of the cellar where the barrels are kept then led to the restaurant for the tasting itself. Their wine was excellent, in particular the 2009 Riserva, and the sommelier was very friendly and informative.
-Il Selvatici– Hidden on top of a hill in Montevarchi, this vineyard is famed for its Chianti Titolato and dessert wines. Giuseppe worked through lunch to accommodate our visit and we are so glad he did. This is some of the finest wine we have tasted and we made sure to bring cases home. Giuseppe works a lot in the US, hosting Tuscan Dinner Parties for lots of celebrities (their pictures lining the showroom) and other enthusiasts. I would definitely recommend visiting this vineyard.
Pasta Making and Cooking Course (€150.00 pp)- Originally we had planned to do a class at the hotel, but the steep prices encouraged me to look for other options. I found Tuscan Wine Tours (http://www.tuscan-wine-tours.com), based in Florence, they were more than happy to swing by the villa and pick us up en route to participate in the ‘Tasty Tuscan’ tour.
Learning to make pasta with Norma at her cute little store was such fun. She explained the different techniques that have been passed down to her from generations of women in her family, including artisan and industrial pasta. We go to enjoy the fruits of our labour for lunch.
Truffle Hunting- Next stop was truffle hunting with Mario and his two daughters. He even brought some newly born pups he was training to hunt along his prize winning truffle dogs. To be honest, playing with the dogs was the highlight for me. Not many truffles can be found in the summer months and it felt more like a Q & A session with him rather than experiencing a real hunt. Perhaps the olive press tour is a better option.
San Gimignano- The final stop of the tour was this very well preserved Medieval walled town, famous for the cityscape its fine towers provide (a sign of wealth when they were constructed), also dubbed ‘Medieval Manhattan’. One of the prettiest in the area, a visit here is well worth it and you can enjoy the worlds best gelato at Gelateria Dondoli- the line doesn’t take long, better to wait than go with the copycat next door.
Hike up to the Rocca of Montestaffoli for the best views over the town and Tuscan countryside.
For more information visit http://www.sangimignano.com/en/
Where we ate:
Villa Mangiacane- The highlight of our stay at the hotel was dinner at the restaurant. Only the finest and freshest ingredients used as per the Tuscan mantra of simple yet quality cooking. The staff there were friendly and made very good recommendations. The hotel provides a 3 course dining package for €120.00.
Da Daniele- A five minute drive from the villa, this restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes with fantastic views over the hillside. Great for meeting some locals and cheap beer.
If we had more time:
More wine tasting tours in particular:
Castello di Albola
Castello di Tornano
-till the next experience
YOLO Inc. 