The final stop on our three week Italian road trip (see previous blogs) was Lago di Como, also known as Lario. It is the third largest in Italy after Garda and Maggiore and shaped like an upside down Y.
What surprised me the most was the sheer scale of this basin, and with the Alps looming above the 120km stretch, its beauty was not overshadowed, but rather complemented, forming the most incredible contrast of terrain.
Of all the lakes, it attracts the most praise, attention and media, mainly thanks to its many famous residents of past and present. Beautiful villages line the shores such as Como, Bellagio and Menaggio, offering a variety of different viewpoints.
How we got there:
As the nearest lake to Milan (see previous blog), it is very easy to access the resorts on the autostrada. I would recommend hiring a car even if you fly in to be able to explore the area with ease. There is a ferry service, but after one 90 minute loop you may want a quicker option.
Where we stayed:
The Palace Hotel, Como- http://www.palacehotel.it/en
Due to its famed reputation and hype, hotels in Lake Como are not cheap and fill up quickly during the summer months. We opted to stay in the town of Como for no particular reason apart from hotel availability.
Overlooking the lakefront, this hotel is in a very central location and convenient for catching the ferry or walking around the town. Like most hotels in the area, it does seem overpriced for what you get, but they have recently renovated their rooms and breakfast is good. Try and book a lake view room so you can wake up to a stunning panorama every morning.
What we did:
Hire a boat with AC Boat Rentals- http://www.acboatrentals.com/index.php?p=home&l=en
Hiring a boat can be extremely expensive here and I was getting very discouraged when quotes were coming in for €800.00 with some companies! Luckily I found AC Boat Rentals based in Menaggio, which is a self drive option for a fraction of the cost. We chose to rent for 3 hours, costing €170.00. Everything was pre arranged via email and the owner was very friendly and gave as the ‘tourist map’ of places to go to suit our timeframe. They have different sizes accommodating different parties.
Seeing the lake by boat is a MUST when visiting Lake Como, the views are beyond spectacular. Here are some of the highlights of our ride:
Villa Balbianello: Appearing in numerous films such as Casino Royal, Star Wars: Episode !! Attack of the Clones and A Month by the Lake.
Villa Carlotta: Now a museum and botanical garden, this was the home of Milanese marquis Giorgio Clerici in the 1600’s.
Villa La Gaeta: Also feautured in James Bond’s Casino Royale, the top floor apartment is available for holiday rentals…for those with deep pockets.
Villa Melzi: Built by the former Vice President of the Italian Republic under Napoleonic rule, this house is not only expansive but the gardens offer a lush surrounding.
Villa Oleandra: Known simply as George Clooney’s vacation home, boats are now prohibited from being closer than 100m to the dock and there are fines for standing by the entrance to protect his privacy.
Villa d’Este: A favourite playground of an Empress, an English queen and aristocrats, it was transformed into a luxury hotel in 1873, one of the finest in the world.
Some other spectacular villas seen from the water:
Exploring Como town- A refined town, famed for luxurious silk production for Milan’s high end fashion houses, there is an abundance of shops in town selling items of this material and cashmere. You can also find antique dealers, jewellery shops and restaurants.
The main sites include the Cathedral, the Social Theatre and the rationalist style buildings.
Funicular- An early start is key to beating the crowds and enjoying the breathtaking views from the top with space and peace. Not to be missed and runs very regularly. Stop for a glass of fizz at the top. Unfortunately forgot my camera so no photos from our experience. 😦
Where we ate:
Locanda de Isola di Comacina- http://www.comacina.it/en/index.php
Only accessible by boat, this restaurant on the Island of Comacina is frequented by celebrities and tourists alike. A reservation is key and operates on a cash only basis, but so worth it. Famed for serving just one menu, the same since 1947, you receive a 6 course lunch/dinner that is so authentically Italian we couldn’t stop eating up all the delicious flavours! And the views are just out of this world, request to sit on the terrace.
There are a number of restaurants lining the waterfront in Como, none that stand out, but just make sure to get a lakefront seat at sunset for unforgettable dinner views.
If we had more time:
Would have loved to have visited the following villas by land and explored them from the inside.
Villa Erba
Villa d’Este
Villa Balbianello
-till the next experience
YOLO Inc. 