Tag Archives: Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre, Italy

Tucked away in the Levanta Region on a slice of rugged north west Italian coast is Cinque Terre, translating as ‘The Five Lands’. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to five carefully perched hilltop and cliffside fishing villages linked by precarious mountainside paths and railway system- cars have long been banned from the area.

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Cinque Terre comprises of Riomaggiore, Corniglia, Manarola, Vernazza and Montersosso al Mare, with the latter being the oldest of the Medieval hamlets, dating back to AD 643 and most of what remains dates back to the 12th century. Set amid some of the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, it is no surprise that this continues to be a popular tourist destination.

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The villages are still in a state of recovery after being pounded by flash floods in 2011, mud buried historic features and items. Most businesses have re opened but certain paths and trails remain closed so make sure to double check if you are planning on hiking.

Personally, the Amalfi Coast (see archives under ‘Positano’) was more impressive due to the scale of construction, but if you are based in Northern Italy this is worth a visit for a comparable alternative.

How we got there:

I would recommend driving the panoramic road from La Spezia to Riomaggiore (12 km). As previously mentioned cars have been banned from driving through the towns, so we drove to Riomaggiore’s multi story car park (€23.00 per day) where a shuttle service is available to the centre. It is an easy 10 minute walk if you prefer. We then purchased a rail day pass and used the train to access the other towns.

What we did:

I tried to find a tour guide to show us around but this proved almost impossible unless you were coming on a bus tour from a city, i.e. Florence. So we decided to train hop and do it ourselves, which turned out to be a much more flexible option.

Riomaggiore- Our starting point and second largest town to Monterosso, we were most excited about the Via dell’Amore (Walk of Love). Unfortunately due to the storms they are still rennovating segments of this cliff hugging pathway to the next town of Manarola. Glimpses of it can be seen by the main photo of this blog and I am sure views from the path itself are spectacular.

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Manarola- This can normally be reached by the BVia dell’Amore, but unfortunately it was still closed. We took the train instead to admire the smallest of the towns.  Corniglia– We disembarked the train at the quitest village of Cinque Terre. Takes a little longer to arrive up there, but you are rewarded by the colors, views, and peace that characterises it. 10552062_10154339242965626_1777120687_o10545177_10154340837000626_322222617_o

If you prefer to save your energy it is worth getting the small shuttle bus just outside the station for the uphill approach into the town. There are steps carved into the cliff and you can take them coming back down to the train station to soak in the views.

Vernazza- Known as the pearl of Cinque Terre, it has quiet shady alley streets and spectacular overview of the ocean. 10543961_10154339252435626_257730892_o10552102_10154340840720626_2020209140_o

 Monterosso al Mare- The largest village of Cinque Terre, here admire its ancient churches and recover from all the train hopping with lunch and gelato.

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Where we ate:

There are many restaurants in the main towns of Riomaggiore and Monterosso. We decided to pay the premium price and sit in one of the waterside restaurants to admire the view. I must say it was worth it for people watching and appreciating the contrast of buildings to the ocean.

If we had more time: Take the Ferry- The return to Riomaggiore can be done by ferry where you can admire the amazing view of Cinque Terre from the seaside. Unfortunately the seas were too choppy and this option was not available.

-till the next experience

Italian Roadtrip

When we got invited to attend a Wedding in Italy this year I thought it was a perfect opportunity for an extended holiday. In hindsight I admit my plans were rather ambitious, 17 stops in 20 days was a busy itinerary, but so worth it! Departing London and hopping on the Eurotunnel, it was a quick 18 hour drive to our first destination. For Brits this may seem like a crazy idea, but being married to an American and having lived there myself, this is a common holiday drive time and didn’t faze us at all.

This is of course until we got to the Gothard Road Tunnel on the Swiss/Italian border…

Unbeknownst to us they have been closing the tunnel at midnight to do some road works before the busy ski season descended upon the Alps. Arriving at 2:00am we were diverted on the rather precarious mountain roads which added another 2 hours to the journey. Worst of all as we were coming around a bend, a deer came galloping out of the forest and straight into our car! The poor thing slid about a hundred metres down the road as we tried to regain control of the vehicle with nothing more than thin air on the side of the cliff we were skimming by.

We came to a full stop with hearts in our mouths and looking at the animal for any sign of life, unfortunately there was none. This is sincerely one of the most traumatic experiences of my life and for those who have suffered something similar I am sure you will agree. Limping to the nearest service station with our battered car we called the Swiss AA (AAA for the Americans and not Alcoholics Anonymous) who told us this is quite a common occurrence in the mountains. We drove to Milan where we slept in the backseat until garages opened in the morning. With approximately £9,000 worth of damage this was going to have to wait till we got home and got a rental vehicle for the rest of the trip.

I am pleased to report that after this bump in the road (excuse the pun) the rest of the vacation went very smoothly and over my next few posts I will go over all the places we visited in more detail. Just thought it may be worth writing this as an introduction of sorts.

If you are planning on a similar road trip these are my tips:

1. Carry Cash (Euros)- the tolls throughout Europe are not cheap and each way we must have spent approx €100.00. The Swiss make you purchase a vignette windscreen sticker, which costs 40 CHF. The good news is it is valid for a year.

2. If travelling from England the toll receivers will be on the ‘wrong side’, make sure your passenger is awake and aware of their responsibilities as mainland European drivers like to use their car horns for any delays.

3. Keep Passports handy- Although ours were checked a total of one time at the British side of the border it is still worth having it handy for the rest of the time than having to rummage through a car, especially at night.

4. Sat Nav- We tried to go old school and got a map of Italy, unfortunately it was hard to keep up and road signs are not what they used to be. Data roaming is expensive so save yourself the stress and get a good Sat Nav device. We have the Tom Tom although the Garmin is just as good. Update to European maps before you leave.

5.Italian drivers are not crazy- they are just impatient and intolerant!  Just get out of their way and let them pass, no need to get in a swearing competition when neither of you can understand each other or participate in road wars. You will lose.

Below are the places we visited. Rome and Venice are absent as we went there on separate occasions and have specific blogs dedicated to them also.

1. Bologna

2. Tivoli

3. Castellabate

4. Positano

5. Capri

6. Sorrento

7. Pompeii

8. Herculaneum

9. Mount Vesuvius

10. Naples

11. Siena

12. Florence

13. Tuscany/Chianti Region

14. Pisa

15. Cinque Terre

16. Milan

17. Lake Como

Looking forward to sharing our time in each of these places with you over the coming days.

-till the next experience

For more information on the Eurotunnel visit them on www.eurotunnel.com/uk/home