Often overlooked by tourists in favour of Pompeii, Ercolano as it is known in Italy, is a smaller town that suffered the same fate. Given its location closer to Mount Vesuvius, the ruins are better preserved and maintain finer details than that of the Pompeii excavation.
Paintings, mosaics, second stories to homes and furniture allow even further immersion into the ancient times and grantsvyour imagination to bring this place to life.
If you have time, this is well worth a visit and a two hour slot should suffice to see most of the relics. The modern day city has buried a considerable amount of what existed and therefore cannot be excavated. It is easier to wander around this site without a tour guide, although they are a few touting for business at the entrance for a negotiated cost.
How we got there:
Located a mere half an hour from Pompeii, it is easy to drive but if you do not have a car the train is fairly simple. There are also numerous half day trip options wherever you may be staying in the region.
We left the Amalfi Coast with a heavy heart, but at the same time so excited to get to Pompeii. After watching all the documentaries and reading the books, we couldn’t wait to see the real thing. For my Husband, this was the highlight of the whole trip.
Where we stayed:
Hotel Forum- http://www.hotelforumpompeii.co.uk/en/
It’s slim pickings when choosing a hotel in Pompeii, most people visit on a day trip so there are not amazing options. This should have been a warning sign before booking 2 nights but it was cheap and close to the ruins. This hotel is perfect for visiting Pompeii, literally across the road to the other (quieter) entrance. Recently renovated, however our room was dated so maybe we just got an ‘old’ one. Not a 4 star hotel on an International basis, 3 star would be a fairer rating but they do have a lovely lemon garden where the restaurant is (good food)- don’t forget your bug spray!
What we did:Modern Day Pompeii- There is a melancholy undertone to this town, as if its heyday has long passed and now remains in the shadow of the excavation site of Old Pompeii. There is no joy or excitement as you walk around, and is somewhat reminiscent to places like Coney Island (US) or Blackpool (UK). After our first walk around the main square it became clear why many tourists choose day trip options instead, there is not much to keep you occupied.
Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary- The only real ‘sight’ to see and built as recently as 1934, this church with bell tower is pretty, but nothing to write home about. It is located in Piazza Bartolo Longo, the main square, where shops are dotted around selling tacky chachkies.
Pompeii Excavation- http://www.pompeiisites.org The reason everyone comes here and it does not disappoint! Trying to describe the scale is a challenge, just allow yourself 3-4 hours for a comprehensive visit. If you are not with a tour, enter via the side entrance avoiding crowds, early entry at 8:30 means you can have the amphitheatre to yourself. It is difficult to find a cheap guide if it is not part of a day trip but not really necessary. We even heard a rumour that some make up facts when knowledge is lacking. Just buy yourself a cheap guidebook at the entrance if you are feeling adventurous, leave everything to your imagination.
Side Entrance
Map of Pompeii
Spend the day getting lost amongst the streets that people built thousands of years ago.
Two thousand year old streets
The water system has public fountains for drinking
The Brothel
Ancient porn in the brothel
Its fateful end from the eruption of Mt Vesuvius means everything is so well preserved and it is not hard to immerse yourself in what once was a thriving town.
Yes there are main landmarks such as the amphitheatre, baths and forums but just throw away the map and get lost on the cobbles and exploring the ruins. Every street has something worth venturing into.
There is a surprise around every corner and it is amazing how advanced this civilisation was with sewage/drainage systems, decor and restaurants/bars lining the streets.
And of course, there are the famous hallow casts of some poor souls, capturing their despair for eternity.
If history, archaeology and antiquity interests you, this is a must see! Having visited other sites of antiquity around the world such as Ephesus in Turkey, Chichen Itza in Mexico and Ostia Antica near Rome, this is by far the most extensive and captivating. I hope the pictures have done it some justice.
Where we ate:
Golden Ice Gellato- Various flavours on offer and worth the calories.
La Bettola del Gusto Restaurant- Ranked number one on Trip Advisor we decided to try it. Surprisingly good with very cheap wine options. A nice change to the prices of the Amalfi.
If we had more time:
There is a three day ticket option for €20.00 that allows entry to the 4 main museums and sites in the area. Unfortunately due to time restraints we only visited the main two, Pompeii and Herculaneum (see next blog). The others are Stabia (15 mins north) and Antiquarium of Boscoreale (9 mins north).
When we got invited to attend a Wedding in Italy this year I thought it was a perfect opportunity for an extended holiday. In hindsight I admit my plans were rather ambitious, 17 stops in 20 days was a busy itinerary, but so worth it! Departing London and hopping on the Eurotunnel, it was a quick 18 hour drive to our first destination. For Brits this may seem like a crazy idea, but being married to an American and having lived there myself, this is a common holiday drive time and didn’t faze us at all.
This is of course until we got to the Gothard Road Tunnel on the Swiss/Italian border…
Unbeknownst to us they have been closing the tunnel at midnight to do some road works before the busy ski season descended upon the Alps. Arriving at 2:00am we were diverted on the rather precarious mountain roads which added another 2 hours to the journey. Worst of all as we were coming around a bend, a deer came galloping out of the forest and straight into our car! The poor thing slid about a hundred metres down the road as we tried to regain control of the vehicle with nothing more than thin air on the side of the cliff we were skimming by.
We came to a full stop with hearts in our mouths and looking at the animal for any sign of life, unfortunately there was none. This is sincerely one of the most traumatic experiences of my life and for those who have suffered something similar I am sure you will agree. Limping to the nearest service station with our battered car we called the Swiss AA (AAA for the Americans and not Alcoholics Anonymous) who told us this is quite a common occurrence in the mountains. We drove to Milan where we slept in the backseat until garages opened in the morning. With approximately £9,000 worth of damage this was going to have to wait till we got home and got a rental vehicle for the rest of the trip.
I am pleased to report that after this bump in the road (excuse the pun) the rest of the vacation went very smoothly and over my next few posts I will go over all the places we visited in more detail. Just thought it may be worth writing this as an introduction of sorts.
If you are planning on a similar road trip these are my tips:
1. Carry Cash (Euros)- the tolls throughout Europe are not cheap and each way we must have spent approx €100.00. The Swiss make you purchase a vignette windscreen sticker, which costs 40 CHF. The good news is it is valid for a year.
2. If travelling from England the toll receivers will be on the ‘wrong side’, make sure your passenger is awake and aware of their responsibilities as mainland European drivers like to use their car horns for any delays.
3. Keep Passports handy- Although ours were checked a total of one time at the British side of the border it is still worth having it handy for the rest of the time than having to rummage through a car, especially at night.
4. Sat Nav- We tried to go old school and got a map of Italy, unfortunately it was hard to keep up and road signs are not what they used to be. Data roaming is expensive so save yourself the stress and get a good Sat Nav device. We have the Tom Tom although the Garmin is just as good. Update to European maps before you leave.
5.Italian drivers are not crazy- they are just impatient and intolerant! Just get out of their way and let them pass, no need to get in a swearing competition when neither of you can understand each other or participate in road wars. You will lose.
Below are the places we visited. Rome and Venice are absent as we went there on separate occasions and have specific blogs dedicated to them also.
1. Bologna
2. Tivoli
3. Castellabate
4. Positano
5. Capri
6. Sorrento
7. Pompeii
8. Herculaneum
9. Mount Vesuvius
10. Naples
11. Siena
12. Florence
13. Tuscany/Chianti Region
14. Pisa
15. Cinque Terre
16. Milan
17. Lake Como
Looking forward to sharing our time in each of these places with you over the coming days.
-till the next experience
For more information on the Eurotunnel visit them on www.eurotunnel.com/uk/home
YOLO Inc. 