Positioned atop seven hills is Scotland’s majestic capital of Edinburgh. The old town UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its Medieval roots and pulchritude. Also established as a modern city, it is home to a bustling University, the Fringe Festival (throughout August) and more recently, hosts of the Ryder Cup.
As soon as we stepped off the train, bagpipes filled the air and the city was abuzz. We arrived just a few days before the vote for Independance, creating a rather charged atmosphere rippling throughout the city. It was hard not to get caught up in this momentous time for the country and listening to both sides of the debate from locals was captivating.
How we got there:
Rather than flying, we opted to ride the train. It is a four and a half hour journey from London’s Kings Cross Station to Waverley Street Station, quite comparable to air travel once you factor in getting to the airport, security, flight time etc. If you book far enough in advance First Class seats are reasonably priced and there is also a sleeper train available.
Where we stayed:
The Waldorf Astoria- http://www.waldorfastoriaedinburgh.com
Also known as The Caledonian or “The Caley’ with the locals, this luxury hotel is in prime position to hit the sites and an easy walk to Edinburgh Castle and the rest of Old Town. The rooms are rather small, but perfectly formed complimented with Salvatore Ferragamo toiletries. Their bathrobes are so comfortable and luxe I ended up buying one.
What we did:
THE OLD TOWN
Farmers Market: On our way to the castle we stumbled upon the Farmers Market which is held in its shadow every Saturday on Castle Terrace. Lots of local produce including delicious Angus Beef Burgers are worth trying.
Edinburgh Castle: This fortress is the main focal point of the city, dominating the skyline and almost always in site wherever you go. Built in the 12th century it has never been taken by force (only by siege) as our guide informed us. Not difficult to believe considering the amount of layers, steep edges and gates to go through before entering the heart of the compound. Essentially it sits atop the opening of a volcano on Castle Rock but lava streams hardened during the last ice age creating this rocky mound.
It was the seat of power to anyone ruling the region, although it was not until the 11th century that Edinburgh became the capital of the newly independent Scotland and royal residences were constructed within the walls. These are mainly located in Crown Square, where the Scottish crown jewels are kept. You will notice how sparsely decorated the residences are, showing a rather frugal and refreshing disposition when renovating the castle.
Free guided tours are available and well worth it for some extra intel. Try and get there early to avoid crowds or at least before 1:00pm (except Sundays) to see the ‘one o’clock gun’ in action, a tradition used to confirm the correct time to ship Captains docked nearby. Why 1:00pm and not 12:00 like everyone else? Well, as our guide put it “Us Scots are tight with our money, so 1 cannon ball is a lot cheaper than 12!”
Also check out St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh and still used today for Weddings and Baptisms. There is Whisky Tasting available and other museums on site including the National War Museum and Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Museum. Great views across New Town are easy to find up here.
The Royal Mile- Once the castle was built, a town naturally started developing below it, with the main street leading all the way to Holyroodhouse. In the 16th century it was named the Royal Mile as it was often used by royalty to travel between the two landmarks. Just over a mile long, it is the oldest street of Edinburgh and separates into four sections.
A lot of tourist attractions have opened along this street including:
Castlehill Section-
Tartan Weaving Mill (seen in the picture above)- skip it, extremely overpriced and just a glorified shop.
Camera Obscure and World of Illusions– Expensive for what it is, but fun for kids.
The Whisky Experience- As touristy as this was – Braveheart impersonator to greet you outside the entrance- it was fun and a good education for the Whisky novice that I am. Lasting approximately 1 hours, it begins with a ‘barrel ride through Whisky’, explaning the process of production and history, then the tasting commences from the four regions of Scotland. We just went for the standard package which was more than enough and if you want more there is a bar at the end of the tour.
The pièce de résistance is the final room, which houses the most extensive Scottish Whisky collection in the world, obtained over 35 years and not one bottle open, just some lost to the ‘angels share’.
Lawnmarket Section-
Deacon Brodie’s Tavern- try a pint in the namesake pub of the infamous burglar masquerading as a gentleman.
The High Street Section-
St Giles Cathedral– stop in to the orginal Parish Church of the city to admire the kirk and ceiling of the Thistle Chapel.
John Knox House- Memorabilia and the influential manuscripts from which he preached his Calvinist texts are here.
Museum of Childhood- Old toys and games are exhibited in this small museum.
Parliament House- Located in Parliament Square at the bottom of the Royal Mile, opposite Holyrood house, stands this highly controversial government building. Infamous for its ‘marmite’ design and colossal overspend (costing Scotts £80 a head), you either love it or hate it.
Canongate Section-
Canongate Tollbooth- displaying its distinctive clock tower, this was a former, chamber, courthouse and toll booth but now home to “The People’s Story” exhibit.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse- Official home to the British Monarch in Scotland, this ‘house’ is often used to greet foreign dignitaries, papal visits and recently the Wedding of Zara Phillips. The lavish design is in keeping with royalty and beautiful tapestries line the walls. There is a homely feel to it, the opulence is clear but there is also a humble undertone, perhaps because it is still lived in. The Queen spends the first week of the summer here (closed to the public when she is in residence). I wish I could show you the interiors but no pictures are to be taken inside.
Holyrood Abbey was a pleasant surprise at the end of the tour. This Augustinian Abbey founded in 1128, is still set in the manicured lawns, but a shell of its former self. One side still stands proud, lending to your imagination of what the finished abbey would have been like.
Holyrood Park and Arthurs Seat- The volcanic peak of Arthurs Seat is to the south of the palace and a moderately easy climb after the tour of the house.
THE NEW TOWN
Shopping on Princes Street- Once regarding as the most beautiful street in Europe, it can accommodate your needs with all of its High Street stores.
The Scott Monument- This neo-Gothic construction is 200ft tall and is a tribute to Sir Walter Scott (and dog, Maida).
The Ghost Bus Tour- http://www.theghostbustours.com/edn/edinburgh.html
According the site “The Edinburgh Ghost Bus Tour is a theatrical sightseeing tour, taking you on a journey around the darker side of Edinburgh. Your creepy conductor shows you the sights onboard a classic 1960s Routemaster. Learn about witches, grave robbers, plague and of course the ghosts that reside in the most haunted city in Europe. A comedy horror show as you travel around, this is the perfect way to see Edinburgh and discover it’s dark and unusual secrets.”
This was such a fun and different tour which we thoroughly enjoyed. Not only did we get to see the city by night, but the stories put a different spin on Edinburgh. The ‘conductor’ was a brilliant narrator and painted quite a haunted picture whilst the low fog over the moors added to the ambience of his tales.
Where we ate:
The Witchery- http://www.thewitchery.com
This luxuriously Gothic restaurant is located just below the castle esplanade and has two historic dining rooms. Lit only by candlelight for dinner it creates a bewitching dining experience and splendid atmosphere. The Witchery takes its name from the hundreds of witches burnt at the stake in the 16th and 17th centuries just outside its doors. In fact, there is still a ‘Witches Well’ – a small bronze fountain just outside the castle.
Known for its Scottish menu and wine selection, we indulged in both, ordering Haggis, the Beef Wellington and Desert Sampler. Truly delicious and above our expectations, this is one of the meals meals I have ever had! The staff very polite and the sommelier helpful in picking a wine pairing. The only change I would make is to encourage a dress code amongst its patrons. Some people were dining in t-shits and flip flops which took away from the mystical mood.
It can be difficult to get a table here so book well in advance, and if you really feel like indulging, then try reserving a stay in one of the 9 theatrical rooms – a favourite amongst celebrities.
Ghillie Dhu- http://www.ghillie-dhu.co.uk
This bar was a rather odd choice for a breakfast spot, but it was close to our hotel and everyone else had stopped serving breakfast after 11:00am and I NEEDED a Scottish fry up! Personally, I think they have the best fry up, leaving nothing out of the equation. You get the Haggis but also the Black Pudding. You get the Hash Browns but also the Potato Scones. This place delivered.
If we had more time:
Explore more of the New Town- Although we saw most of it on the night bus, it would be fun to walk around the squares and terraces.
Visit a couple more museums such as the Scottish Museum and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.
-till the next experience
YOLO Inc. 